Textiles Resource Hierarchy - End of life without energy recovery

End of life (EOL) refers to waste stream routes, primarily incineration and landfill. EOL flows should be composed of textile waste only. Textile waste includes items with no or limited resource value and no feasible onward market. Examples include textiles that do not meet reuse, recycling and remanufacturing requirements such as wet or contaminated textiles.

EOL without energy recovery is a waste steam that does not derive energy from waste textiles (e.g. combustion to generate electricity).

Given the large quantity of textiles that arises in residual waste streams, there is great opportunity and economic value in diverting volumes away from incineration and landfill by improving and investing in increased capture, collection and sorting. This could enable a thriving circular resale, reuse and recycling industry within the UK.

Landfill / incineration without energy recovery: Key facts and why it matters

759,000
Tonnes of clothing, shoes, bags and non-clothing textiles were sent to landfill or incineration in the UK in 2021. 11% of this went to landfill. [x].
  • A ban on landfill and EfW before prior sorting (non-domestic) may become mandatory in the UK in future: It is considered as a potential statutory measure in Maximising Resources, Minimising Waste (2023) [x].
  • Other countries are already implementing statutory measures: According to the Waste Framework Directive (WFD) EU Member States must establish separate collection systems for used textiles from 2025 [x] to support a reduction of textiles going to EoL. Policymakers are also calling for ban on destruction of textiles and footwear across the EU [x].
  • By moving up the resource hierarchy, stakeholders can bypass landfill gate fees and landfill tax [x]. 
  • There is great opportunity and economic value in diverting textiles away from incineration and landfill and up the Textiles Resource Hierarchy. Keeping materials at the top of the waste hierarchy by resale, rental and repair diversify business portfolios and enable income streams that are not dependent on the extraction of virgin materials.

Landfill/ Incineration without Energy Recovery: ready to take action? Check out the next steps for your business…

  • Form partnerships with reuse and recycling organisations to shift “waste” up the resource hierarchy and maximise value.

    For reuseable textiles (including unsold/ surplus products, products destined for destruction): can items be de-labelled or deconstructed to prioritise reuse and recycling? Strategies to design for EOL are set out in WRAP’s Circular Design Toolkit.

    Enable collection and sorting of non-reuseable textiles to prioritise recycling.

  • Prioritise Energy from Waste over landfill where no other option exists.

    Work with waste management companies and Local Authorities to utilise energy recovery systems.

  • Educate citizens on how to correctly dispose of their used textiles, to divert textiles going to residual waste.

    Local Authorities should ensure citizens have access to clear messaging on what to do with their non-reusable textiles.

    Brands and retailers should also direct citizens to suitable disposal routes.

    Citizens can now find up-to-date advice on how and where to recycle a range of unwanted clothing and household textiles on WRAP's Recycle Now website.

What alternatives to landfill/ incineration without recovery are organisations like yours using now...

Shred Station®: preparation of non-recyclable textiles for Energy from Waste.

DHL corporate uniforms: diversion from landfill via reuse, recycling and EfW.

Yellow Octopus/ Primark Partnership: take-back scheme to divert textiles from landfill

Further reading about Reuse

  • Textiles Market Situation Report 2024

  • Circular Design Toolkit for Fashion and Textiles

  • Textiles Policy Options and Cost Benefit Analysis

  • Post-Consumer Textiles Landscape Review